Birds Droppings - shared with us by Len C&L Aviaries with thanks to his Chester County Bird Club Understanding your bird's droppings could save your bird's life It is true that when a bird becomes sick that their health can deteriorate quickly. But it's rarely true that when a bird become sick, it dies suddenly without showing symptoms of illness. The symptoms are there, we just have to learn how to recognize them. Changes in the droppings can be a very early indicator that the bird is sick. Know what normal droppings look like so you can recognize a change in color, consistency, order, and/or amount. Use paper at the bottom of the cage so that the dropping falls flat and clean onto the paper. This will enable you to recognize any changes in color, consistency, order, and/or amount. If you are able to notice this change you could save your bird's life. If you use wood shavings at the bottom of your cage and you miss a change in color and consistency in the droppings then you failed your bird. It is wrong to use wood shavings at the bottom of your cage so that it looks nice and you do not have to clean the bottom of your cage as often if it interferes with evaluating the droppings for signs of health problems. There are three components to most droppings. Urine consists of a crystal urine called urates (white chalky material) and a non-crystal urine called urine (clear water). Sometimes the 2 types of urine are mixed creating a cloudy white urine. Important changes include color changes and amount. Green or Yellow Urates - Liver Disease - Anorexia Brown or Chocolate Urates - Lead Poisoning Red Urine or Urates - Internal Bleeding Increased Urates - Dehydration Increased Urine - Disease, Eating food high in water, Drinking alot The third part of the droppings is the feces which comes from the colon and consists of digested food. The color varies depending on the types of food eaten. Red pellets and strawberries produce a red colored dropping. (This does not apply to the urine..) Seed and green vegetables produce a green dropping. (This does not apply to the urine.) Blueberries and blackberries produce black droppings. The feces should be solid and tubular like a worm. It can be coiled up or uncoiled and it is okay if it is broken into pieces. Diarrhea is not excessive urine in the droppings. Diarrhea is the fecal material not holding its tubular shape. Instead it is the consistency of pudding. Look for blood in the feces. If the feces is fresh and black in color and there were no blueberries in the diet then this indicates melena. Melena is black droppings caused by bleeding high up in the digestive system. When the blood passes through the lower digestive system, it is digested turning the red blood into a black tarry color, staining the feces black. Color which cannot be explained by the diet should be investigated by your veterinarian. Don't forget to look for real worms like tapeworms and roundworms. If you notice black droppings (indicating internal bleeding) at the bottom of your bird's cage, stop and go to your veterinarian. If you wait until the bird is weak, not eating, and fluffed up, then you have a race against the clock to save the bird's life. Watch your bird's droppings everyday and learn what they look like normally. When you notice a change, identify what portion of the dropping has changed. If you cannot explain the change by the bird's lifestyle then act immediately and contact your avian veterinarian. MILLET -Nutrional or Bird Candy This grain has the most complete protein of any grain ,except for quinoa and amaranth. It is a primary food of the Hunza people. Millet also has significant amounts of iron, lecithin, and choline, which help keep cholesterol in check and stop the formation of certain types of gall stones. It is the only grain, because it is alkaline, which is good for the spleen, pancreas and stomach. Millet can also benefit those who suffer from acidosis,which is a common ailment with those who are ill. It is also good for colitis, ulcers, and urinary disorders. Millet is the oldest grain known and is used in our country primarily as bird seed. Yale University studies have shown millet's protein, vitamins, minerals, and unsaturated fat content to be higher than any other grain. Millet: More ancient than any other grain that grows, millet has been around since the Neolithic age, maybe longer. The first official recognition was the FAN SHEN-CHIU SHU ( tables of agricultural dicta compiled in 2800 B.C.) , which declared it to be one of China's five sacred crops. Rich in phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, calcium, and niacin, the nutritive value of a cup of cooked millet (90 calories) is only a step below wheat on the protein ladder. It is also higher in lysine ( one of the building blocks for the body's immune system) than rice, corn, or oats. Christine BIOSECURITY I think with all of this talk about END - where it is, where it isn't, has it been confirmed - is probably making everyone crazy and paranoid. However,I want to stress that you can protect your birds regardless of END, avian influenza or any other disease outbreaks - it is called practicing proper biosecurity. This will not only protect you and your birds from END (and the government if they think you have been exposed to END), but the far more likelihood of bringing in other more virulent and more prevalent avian diseases. For example, I followed the thread about polyomavirus and whether or not to vaccinate. However, the most common source of polyomavirus infection comes from the acceptance of unweaned baby birds. NO ONE should ever take anyone's unweaned babies into their aviary - that is the best and quickest way to get polyoma, yet I see people doing it all the time. I do not care if the person is someone you have known since grade school, never take an unweaned baby into your aviary because when it comes to contagious diseases in aviaries you simply cannot take a chance. Quarantine - obviously the best way to protect your birds is to never bring in a new bird but this is not practical for many people especially those just starting out or involved with breeding cooperatives - so you need to quarantine. Although I do not buy birds from outside sources anymore, I do quarantine any birds that leave my facility for any reason. This means a trip to the vet (for health certificates prior to shipping), show birds or my birds that are returned to me if the sale does not work out. My quarantine facility is in a separate building from my breeding aviary and all birds get a minimum of 90 days - with three rounds of testing prior to being placed back in the breeding facility. Yes, it is a pain and it is expensive but it truly the best protection you can have to keep diseases out of your aviary. Always service the quarantine birds last and make sure you keep their food separated from the other birds. It is a good idea to put on booties (disinfectants have to be changed daily and do not work if you have mud on your shoes), shower and change clothes after you have taken care of them. Do not let people visit your breeding facility. I am the only one that goes into my breeding aviary - unless I am away and then my husband (who otherwise has no contact whatsoever with birds) takes care of them. I do not let people see or visit the birds - I have lost sales because of it but sobe it. It is far more important for me to keep my birds safe than risk an introduction of disease just to make a bird sale. In the event my vet comes for an inspection, I always schedule it first thing in the AM and make sure he is given disposable booties and a lab coat. Do not keep free ranging chickens or other fowl - actually, in the event of END, you do not want ANY chickens on your property but if you do, keep them caged and away from your breeding aviary. Also, take steps to keep out vermin such as rats and mice (which can transmit many diseases including END) and protect your property from other people's fowl from entering with fences and/or dogs. If possible, keep your birds indoors. Granted, PDD is rarely found in birds kept out of doors but you cannot practice good biosecurity measures if your cages are outside and exposed to the open air and elements. Regardless of what the Office of Homeland Security says, duct tape and plastic are notadequate biosecurity protection against END (and END is not airborne!). Also, with WNV soon to be in all 50 states, you are going to want to protect your birds and being indoors with proper screening will do the job much better than being out and exposed. It will also keep your birds protected from wild bird diseases as well as predators. Buy supplies from places that do not keep birds or that you know keep their birds in a separate facility. Do not attend bird marts, flea markets or swap meets. If you go to bird shows, shower and change clothes including your shoes before attending to your birds. Same with attending events at a county fairgrounds - chickens are almost always at fairgrounds at some time or another so avoid them at all costs. If you do attend a county fair, make sure you shower, change clothes and do not wear the same shoes into your aviary. These simple but important steps will protect your birds from just about anything Mother Nature can throw at them including the US government that does recognize these procedures as proper biosecurity measures. They also have the added benefit of protecting your birds from theft, which has been steadily on the rise since the inception of the WBCA. It will also help you sleep better at night. These are difficult times for those of us with birds but we do have ways to protect ourselves. We need to make use of those ways and not live in fear or worry that the next Foster Farm chicken we buy will kill all of our birds. We can deal with these issues in a safe, reasonable and responsible manner and best of all, our birds will be healthier and stronger for it. Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S. The Parrotlet Ranch, CUTTLEBONE - Good, necessary ****Not always**** I will tell you of Loga's experience just in case. One day Loga ate her cuttlebone ate her cuttlebone and ate her cuttlebone. The next day after this shewas very lethargic. I could not awaken her. An normal 1 hour trip to my vet took 20 minutes flat! The vet did a blood test immediately and it was discovered that she was severely dehydrated. If I would of waited another day Loga would of passed away. As it was when talking to our vet about what happened I mentioned about the cuttle bone she devoured. The vet had to give her a crop flush to remove the cuttle bone that was still there and give her fluids and vitamins by needle.I was put on a 24 hour(1 day) of giving her fluids every 2 hours to keep the fluids within her. Well Loga,thank God survived. We did discuss the possibility of the dreaded E word(egg) and to keep an eye on this. several visits later there was no egg,thank God, and we discovered that Loga was just a pig with her cuttle bone.Hence she is not allowed cuttle bone to this day.She has never learned the word moderation. It is not part of her vocabulary LOL. I just wanted to share this so that you too can keep an eye on Jaden. Cuttle bone can and does deplete the watefrom their little bodies very fast. I don't mean to scare or offend anyone but just to pass on what happened to my little girl. Most fids can use cuttle bone properly but there are exceptions to every rule and my little Loga is one. Karin&Loga A Name - What's in a name: The word Parrot let is pronounced like that not parrOlet. The word Parrotlet means Little Parrot. What an appropriate name for the little wonders of the parrot world. Seems many refer to them parrolets dropping the T. Let's all make an effort to get it changed.and call parrotlets what they really are. Judie Cedar for Litter or Nesting material: I noticed you said "cedar box"; cedar is toxic to birds. Perhaps that is why your bird had a seizure. I would NEVER let her near that box again.Parrotlets are very small and it only takes small amounts of toxins to cause problems. Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists Cuttlebone:: When a parrotlet is young and its bones are still growing, they need more cuttlebone than when they are adults. Also, females need more than males (including non-breeding hens). The first year they will probably eat more than any other time except when breeding.Happy parrotleting,Sandee Robert & Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists EDIBLE FLOWERS FOR BIRDS NB: The following information was submitted to me. I have not verified any of this but find the subject of edible flowers very interesting..Worth searching out more info if you wish to eat and or feed to your birds As spring approaches its that time to think about gardens and what to plant.I enjoy planting herbs and other fun plants that my birds can enjoy as well.We often stroll about (in my now tiny yard) as my birds sample this and that. I especially enjoy flowers and my birds enjoy edible flowers. Of course never offer flowers that are you have any question about and remember that often, only *parts* of a plant are safe, so only offer those parts you know for sure are OK and of course never spray plants that you'll be eating. Also never offer flowers from a florist. some examples to try are: Anise Hyssop (agastache foeniculum)- the leaves and small petals of this flowering herb taste like a mixture of anise and root beer. Dill (Anethum graveolens)- young leaves, florets and seeds English Daisies (Bellis Perennis)- Petals have a slightly bitter flavor. Apple Blossoms(Malus spp.)- Petals have a slight floral taste.great for Waldorf Salads. Arugula(Eruca vesicaria)- Grown for its leaves, but when leaves become too strong tasting, flowers can be used. Bee Balm( Mondara, Oswego tea)- This one I love. It smells like mint and has red (having the most taste) or purple flowers...but it is an invasive plant, so containers might be best. Leaves and petals are minty and can be used for tea. Tuberous Begonias (Begonia X tuberhybridia)- Petals have a light lemony taste but taste first to make sure they are not astrigent. Broccoli- Yellow or white flowers that have a mild broccoli flavor Sage (salvia officinalis, S. elegans)- Sage flowers taste like sage but sweeter. Rose- Rose petals have a strong floral taste. My birds love to rip roses apart. Nasturtiums- flowers, leaves and seed pods are edible. They have a tangy mustard like flavor. Marigolds (tagetes)- Not all marigolds are tasty but there are some better varieties than others. The Lemon Gem and Tangerine Gem varities have a lot of taste. French Vanilla and Aurora Light Yellow are milder. Use the flowers petals. Daylillies (hemerocallis spp.)- Flower petals can be eaten. Taste ranges from a sweet floral to slightly metallic. the lighter colored flowers tend to be less astrigent than the darker colored ones. Pinks (Dianthus spp.)- Petals have a spicy, floral, clovelike taste. Sometimes the white base of the petal is bitter so you might want to remove it. Squash blossoms-all squash and pumpkin- yellow blossoms. A slight sweet nectar taste. Harvest in the early morning before blossoms close. Remove stems and stamens from blossoms. Strawberries- fruit and flower blossoms.eat petals. Pansies, Violas and Johnny Jump-Ups-Petals have a slight lettucelike taste Violets- Petals have a strong sweet floral taste Calendula (canlendula officianalis) petals have a tangy, bitter taste. Citrus blossoms (lemon and orange)-fruit and flower petals, strength of taste will vary. Cilantro-leaves and flowers,have an earthy flavor. Lilac-individual florets. Floral taste, some much better than others. Mustard (India Mustard), Japenese Red or Spinach mustard-Flowers have a slight mustard taste. Have FUN!! Shauna submitted by Randy Wood For help on edible flowers and gardening for your birds join Diana Dougherty FEATHER PICKING First thing to do is a vet check to rule out organic problems. I have found that most parrotlet picking problems have to do with too much hormone stimulation and/or not enough things to rip up. Do not give a Birdy Buddy; that will only encourage hormonal disturbances. One of the biggest mistakes new bird owners make is too much light. If you uncover your bird at 7 or 8 a.m. and do not put her to bed until 9 or 10 (sometimes later), that will trigger hormonal changes that stimulate breeding. Since she is not breeding, her frustration can lead to picking. Lower the amount of daylight she is getting to less than 12; 10 is better.Also, give her things she can destroy such as hanging a paper towel through the top of the cage bars. This will allow her to chew, tear and destroy without doing it to her feathers. Also, cut the inside cardboard tubes from toilet paper or paper towel rolls into 1" pieces and let her tear those up. As she peels and strips them, it will simulate preening. Also, I have found toys made of soft, frayed rope (pieces not too long) will also act as "feathers" and they can preen and preen until the toys are completely destroyed. Don't waste your money or torture your bird with sprays to stop feather plucking. They don't work and I think they are cruel to spray on such a tiny bird (how do you avoid getting it in their eyes and nose?).I have also heard of good results with some of the Avian Medicine Chest products. Happy parrotleting, Sandee Hot Peppers - "Why can birds tolerate what turns us to tears" UniSci - Daily University Science News Why Birds Disperse The Seeds Of Hot Chili Peppers Your tongue burns, tears trickle from your eyes and beads of sweat form on your face. Most people are well aware of the effects of "enjoying==hot chili peppers and tend to approach them with caution or stay away altogether. Birds, on the other hand, will happily consume the hottest of peppers with no ill effects whatsoever. A paper from Sven-Eric Jordt and David Julius published in this week's issue of Cell explains the cellular mechanism behind this long observed difference between mammals and birds. Hot chili peppers contain varying amounts of capsaicin, a chemical compound similar to the active compound in vanilla. In mammals, it is the capsaicin from hot peppers that interacts with a specific receptor protein called VR1 (vannilloid receptor 1) on sensory nerve endings and evokes sensations of burning and pain. VR1 also activates pain pathways when stimulated by heat. The researchers identified a receptor from chicken sensory neurons that is structurally and functionally similar to mammalian VR1. Although chicken VR1 was activated by heat, it differs from mammalian VR1 in that it is insensitive to stimulation by capsaicin. The scientists were able to pinpoint an exact region of the VR1 receptor in mammals that binds capsaicin and found that this small region is not present in the avian form of the receptor. This subtle difference in the structure of the VR1 receptors between the species makes mammals extremely sensitive to the spiciness of hot peppers while birds are relatively unaffected. This species-specific difference is good for the pepper plant as well as the bird. Mammalian predators, whose digestive systems would damage the seeds of the plant, are repelled, while birds can consume the peppers with ease. Wild birds are almost entirely responsible for dispersing the seeds of hot peppers, which pass through their gut without being digested. The pepper plant has therefore developed a unique chemical mechanism to improve its reproductive success. We now know that the basis of this interesting evolutionary mechanism hinges on a very tiny region of a specific protein receptor in sensory nerves. [Contact: David Julius] submitted by Randy Wood - Washington. DC Little known Facts to Share (tongue in cheek and just for fun) (#14 is about a bird) :-) Did you know... It is impossible to lick your elbow. A crocodile can't stick it's tongue out. A shrimp's heart is in their head. It is physically impossible for pigs to look up into the sky. A pregnant goldfish is called a twit Between 1937 and 1945 Heinz produced a version of Alphabetic Spaghetti especially for the German market that consisted solely of little pasta swastikas. More than 50% of the people in the world have never made or received a telephone call. The "sixth sick sheik's sixth sheep's sick" is said to be the toughest tongue twister in the English language. If you sneeze too hard, you can fracture a rib. If you try to suppress a sneeze, you can rupture a blood vessel in your head or neck and die. IF you keep your eyes open by force, they can pop out. Rats multiply so quickly that in 18 months, two rats could have over a million descendants. Wearing headphones for just an hour will increase the bacteria in your ear by 700 times. The cigarette lighter was invented before the match. Thirty-five percent of the people who use personal ads for dating are already married. A duck quack doesn't echo, and no one knows why. In the course of an average lifetime you will, while sleeping, eat 70 assorted insects and 10 spiders. Most lipstick contains fish scales. Cat's urine glows under a black-light. Like fingerprints, everyone's tongue print is different Mutation Parrotlets & Pellets - Something to Think About by - Sandee Molenda, The Parrotlet Ranch When you have been breeding birds as long as I have, you have seen a lot of changes in the world of aviculture. I remember where there were no avian veterinarians, the only birds available were caught out in the jungle and there was no such thing as a bird "toy". Thank goodness that things have changed dramatically in the last 20 years! One thing that has not changed is human nature. Once we learn something, it can be difficult to keep an open mind about new developments. Nowhere in aviculture is this so remarkably demonstrated than in the field of avian nutrition. In reminisce of yesterday, it also brings to mind when pellets were first invented and marketed as a complete food for your bird. At the time, the only "parrot food" was a mix of sunflower seed, corn, peanuts and dried chili peppers. Feeding fruit and vegetables to your birds was thought to cause diarrhea! Of course, we know the "first" parrot food was extremely high in fat and had almost no nutritional value other than the dried chili peppers. Now, of course, we know much better than that and certainly have a huge variety in what we should feed our birds. However, many people believe that unless their birds are eating pellets, they are not receiving a healthy diet. My belief is that there are many ways to supply a healthy and varied diet to our birds and pellets may or may not be a part of that program. Today, in addition to a huge variety of seeds and pellets, we have a limitless supply of fresh fruits, vegetables, sprouts and greens as well as whole grain breads, grains, rice and pasta. Many companies such as LeAvian(tm) and Soak N' Cook(tm) offer combinations of vegetables, fruits, grains, herbs, seeds and nuts which can be cooked and frozen then thawed as need be. These foods, combined with or without seeds and/or pellets, make up a healthful and complete diet for any parrotlet. However, if you have color mutation parrotlets, you would do well to feed these natural foods and avoid pellets altogether. Many parrotlets owners have reported high uric acid levels often resulting in kidney failure in their color mutations that have been on a primarily pelleted diet. This is not to say there is ANYTHING wrong with pellets as it seems to be in the way the birds' process the protein. There have been several private veterinarians as well as veterinarians at research universities that have also documented this problem in color mutations. In my own aviary, I am no longer feeding pellets to my mutations after losing a male fallow Pacific at six months to kidney failure. In fact, I do not give pellets to my split mutation parrotlets either. As with all my birds, about 70% of their diet is fresh foods with the remainder being seed. I am constantly doing research on nutrition with my birds and I may again change my program, but for now, this protocol works well - I have beautiful healthy birds who produce gorgeous bouncing babies. I also have a lot of old birds that I have had for 20 years and that to me, let's me know that what I am doing is right for me - and them. Happy parrotleting, Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S. Temperature: Generally speaking, adult (or young birds over 3 months) acclimated parrotlets do fine in temperatures between 55-90 degrees. If the temp drops below 60, they will stop breeding. And it is true, they do much better in the cold rather than the hot (doesn't make sense to me since they come from the tropics). However, I do know people who keep their parrotlets outside where the temperature can fall to 30 or less (of course, these birds are used to it and are sheltered from the wind and rain). I have friends in AZ where the summer temp can easily be over 110. They use misters to keep the birds cool. For parrotlets in a household situation, basically whatever is comfortable for you, will be comfortable for them. Of course, babies and new birds need to be acclimated and not exposed to sudden temperature changes. Happy parrotleting, Sandee I took my birds to work in all kinds of conditions and NEVER lost a baby. Not once. I only lived 15 minutes from my work and Iive in California but I got a converter for my car lighter which allowed me to plug my brooder into it and keep babies warm. I have also traveled with more parrotlets, including babies, than probably anyone. When I fly, I use hot packs for sports injuries which can be heated in a microwave or in hot water. They kept my babies warm all the way across the country in an over-airconditioned airplane cabin with no problems at all. During the summer, you will have the problem of keeping them cool. I just brought mine into the stores, etc. with me. You would be surprised how many people would ask me "Do you bring them everywhere?" I always wanted to reply, "No just the grocery store. They love to shop." :) Good luck and Happy parrotleting, Sandee Viruses: Viruses are species specific (unless they jump species but that is another subject) but no, you cannot give your bird a cold. BUT you can give them a bacterial infection such as strep. If you are ill do not kiss your bird and wash your hands frequently. Happy parrotleting,,Sandee Robert & Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists Why do birds sleep on one leg? A bird's leg receives three times as much blood per heartbeat as its pectoral muscles (the largest muscles in a bird's body). What this means is there is great potential for loss of body heat through a birds legs and feet. By standing on one leg, it is able to keep the other leg up close to its body and feathers to reduce heat loss. It is very similar to the way we pull our arms in close to our chest when we get cold, it reduces the amount of skin exposed to the cool air and keeps us warmer! Sue Turner |
"NOTES OF INTEREST" |
Birds Droppings - shared with us by Len C&L Aviaries with thanks to his Chester County Bird Club Understanding your bird's droppings could save your bird's life It is true that when a bird becomes sick that their health can deteriorate quickly. But it's rarely true that when a bird become sick, it dies suddenly without showing symptoms of illness. The symptoms are there, we just have to learn how to recognize them. Changes in the droppings can be a very early indicator that the bird is sick. Know what normal droppings look like so you can recognize a change in color, consistency, order, and/or amount. Use paper at the bottom of the cage so that the dropping falls flat and clean onto the paper. This will enable you to recognize any changes in color, consistency, order, and/or amount. If you are able to notice this change you could save your bird's life. If you use wood shavings at the bottom of your cage and you miss a change in color and consistency in the droppings then you failed your bird. It is wrong to use wood shavings at the bottom of your cage so that it looks nice and you do not have to clean the bottom of your cage as often if it interferes with evaluating the droppings for signs of health problems. There are three components to most droppings. Urine consists of a crystal urine called urates (white chalky material) and a non-crystal urine called urine (clear water). Sometimes the 2 types of urine are mixed creating a cloudy white urine. Important changes include color changes and amount. Green or Yellow Urates - Liver Disease - Anorexia Brown or Chocolate Urates - Lead Poisoning Red Urine or Urates - Internal Bleeding Increased Urates - Dehydration Increased Urine - Disease, Eating food high in water, Drinking alot The third part of the droppings is the feces which comes from the colon and consists of digested food. The color varies depending on the types of food eaten. Red pellets and strawberries produce a red colored dropping. (This does not apply to the urine..) Seed and green vegetables produce a green dropping. (This does not apply to the urine.) Blueberries and blackberries produce black droppings. The feces should be solid and tubular like a worm. It can be coiled up or uncoiled and it is okay if it is broken into pieces. Diarrhea is not excessive urine in the droppings. Diarrhea is the fecal material not holding its tubular shape. Instead it is the consistency of pudding. Look for blood in the feces. If the feces is fresh and black in color and there were no blueberries in the diet then this indicates melena. Melena is black droppings caused by bleeding high up in the digestive system. When the blood passes through the lower digestive system, it is digested turning the red blood into a black tarry color, staining the feces black. Color which cannot be explained by the diet should be investigated by your veterinarian. Don't forget to look for real worms like tapeworms and roundworms. If you notice black droppings (indicating internal bleeding) at the bottom of your bird's cage, stop and go to your veterinarian. If you wait until the bird is weak, not eating, and fluffed up, then you have a race against the clock to save the bird's life. Watch your bird's droppings everyday and learn what they look like normally. When you notice a change, identify what portion of the dropping has changed. If you cannot explain the change by the bird's lifestyle then act immediately and contact your avian veterinarian. MILLET -Nutrional or Bird Candy This grain has the most complete protein of any grain ,except for quinoa and amaranth. It is a primary food of the Hunza people. Millet also has significant amounts of iron, lecithin, and choline, which help keep cholesterol in check and stop the formation of certain types of gall stones. It is the only grain, because it is alkaline, which is good for the spleen, pancreas and stomach. Millet can also benefit those who suffer from acidosis,which is a common ailment with those who are ill. It is also good for colitis, ulcers, and urinary disorders. Millet is the oldest grain known and is used in our country primarily as bird seed. Yale University studies have shown millet's protein, vitamins, minerals, and unsaturated fat content to be higher than any other grain. Millet: More ancient than any other grain that grows, millet has been around since the Neolithic age, maybe longer. The first official recognition was the FAN SHEN-CHIU SHU ( tables of agricultural dicta compiled in 2800 B.C.) , which declared it to be one of China's five sacred crops. Rich in phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, calcium, and niacin, the nutritive value of a cup of cooked millet (90 calories) is only a step below wheat on the protein ladder. It is also higher in lysine ( one of the building blocks for the body's immune system) than rice, corn, or oats. Christine BIOSECURITY I think with all of this talk about END - where it is, where it isn't, has it been confirmed - is probably making everyone crazy and paranoid. However,I want to stress that you can protect your birds regardless of END, avian influenza or any other disease outbreaks - it is called practicing proper biosecurity. This will not only protect you and your birds from END (and the government if they think you have been exposed to END), but the far more likelihood of bringing in other more virulent and more prevalent avian diseases. For example, I followed the thread about polyomavirus and whether or not to vaccinate. However, the most common source of polyomavirus infection comes from the acceptance of unweaned baby birds. NO ONE should ever take anyone's unweaned babies into their aviary - that is the best and quickest way to get polyoma, yet I see people doing it all the time. I do not care if the person is someone you have known since grade school, never take an unweaned baby into your aviary because when it comes to contagious diseases in aviaries you simply cannot take a chance. Quarantine - obviously the best way to protect your birds is to never bring in a new bird but this is not practical for many people especially those just starting out or involved with breeding cooperatives - so you need to quarantine. Although I do not buy birds from outside sources anymore, I do quarantine any birds that leave my facility for any reason. This means a trip to the vet (for health certificates prior to shipping), show birds or my birds that are returned to me if the sale does not work out. My quarantine facility is in a separate building from my breeding aviary and all birds get a minimum of 90 days - with three rounds of testing prior to being placed back in the breeding facility. Yes, it is a pain and it is expensive but it truly the best protection you can have to keep diseases out of your aviary. Always service the quarantine birds last and make sure you keep their food separated from the other birds. It is a good idea to put on booties (disinfectants have to be changed daily and do not work if you have mud on your shoes), shower and change clothes after you have taken care of them. Do not let people visit your breeding facility. I am the only one that goes into my breeding aviary - unless I am away and then my husband (who otherwise has no contact whatsoever with birds) takes care of them. I do not let people see or visit the birds - I have lost sales because of it but sobe it. It is far more important for me to keep my birds safe than risk an introduction of disease just to make a bird sale. In the event my vet comes for an inspection, I always schedule it first thing in the AM and make sure he is given disposable booties and a lab coat. Do not keep free ranging chickens or other fowl - actually, in the event of END, you do not want ANY chickens on your property but if you do, keep them caged and away from your breeding aviary. Also, take steps to keep out vermin such as rats and mice (which can transmit many diseases including END) and protect your property from other people's fowl from entering with fences and/or dogs. If possible, keep your birds indoors. Granted, PDD is rarely found in birds kept out of doors but you cannot practice good biosecurity measures if your cages are outside and exposed to the open air and elements. Regardless of what the Office of Homeland Security says, duct tape and plastic are notadequate biosecurity protection against END (and END is not airborne!). Also, with WNV soon to be in all 50 states, you are going to want to protect your birds and being indoors with proper screening will do the job much better than being out and exposed. It will also keep your birds protected from wild bird diseases as well as predators. Buy supplies from places that do not keep birds or that you know keep their birds in a separate facility. Do not attend bird marts, flea markets or swap meets. If you go to bird shows, shower and change clothes including your shoes before attending to your birds. Same with attending events at a county fairgrounds - chickens are almost always at fairgrounds at some time or another so avoid them at all costs. If you do attend a county fair, make sure you shower, change clothes and do not wear the same shoes into your aviary. These simple but important steps will protect your birds from just about anything Mother Nature can throw at them including the US government that does recognize these procedures as proper biosecurity measures. They also have the added benefit of protecting your birds from theft, which has been steadily on the rise since the inception of the WBCA. It will also help you sleep better at night. These are difficult times for those of us with birds but we do have ways to protect ourselves. We need to make use of those ways and not live in fear or worry that the next Foster Farm chicken we buy will kill all of our birds. We can deal with these issues in a safe, reasonable and responsible manner and best of all, our birds will be healthier and stronger for it. Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S. The Parrotlet Ranch, CUTTLEBONE - Good, necessary ****Not always**** I will tell you of Loga's experience just in case. One day Loga ate her cuttlebone ate her cuttlebone and ate her cuttlebone. The next day after this shewas very lethargic. I could not awaken her. An normal 1 hour trip to my vet took 20 minutes flat! The vet did a blood test immediately and it was discovered that she was severely dehydrated. If I would of waited another day Loga would of passed away. As it was when talking to our vet about what happened I mentioned about the cuttle bone she devoured. The vet had to give her a crop flush to remove the cuttle bone that was still there and give her fluids and vitamins by needle.I was put on a 24 hour(1 day) of giving her fluids every 2 hours to keep the fluids within her. Well Loga,thank God survived. We did discuss the possibility of the dreaded E word(egg) and to keep an eye on this. several visits later there was no egg,thank God, and we discovered that Loga was just a pig with her cuttle bone.Hence she is not allowed cuttle bone to this day.She has never learned the word moderation. It is not part of her vocabulary LOL. I just wanted to share this so that you too can keep an eye on Jaden. Cuttle bone can and does deplete the watefrom their little bodies very fast. I don't mean to scare or offend anyone but just to pass on what happened to my little girl. Most fids can use cuttle bone properly but there are exceptions to every rule and my little Loga is one. Karin&Loga A Name - What's in a name: The word Parrot let is pronounced like that not parrOlet. The word Parrotlet means Little Parrot. What an appropriate name for the little wonders of the parrot world. Seems many refer to them parrolets dropping the T. Let's all make an effort to get it changed.and call parrotlets what they really are. Judie Cedar for Litter or Nesting material: I noticed you said "cedar box"; cedar is toxic to birds. Perhaps that is why your bird had a seizure. I would NEVER let her near that box again.Parrotlets are very small and it only takes small amounts of toxins to cause problems. Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists Cuttlebone:: When a parrotlet is young and its bones are still growing, they need more cuttlebone than when they are adults. Also, females need more than males (including non-breeding hens). The first year they will probably eat more than any other time except when breeding.Happy parrotleting,Sandee Robert & Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists EDIBLE FLOWERS FOR BIRDS NB: The following information was submitted to me. I have not verified any of this but find the subject of edible flowers very interesting..Worth searching out more info if you wish to eat and or feed to your birds As spring approaches its that time to think about gardens and what to plant.I enjoy planting herbs and other fun plants that my birds can enjoy as well.We often stroll about (in my now tiny yard) as my birds sample this and that. I especially enjoy flowers and my birds enjoy edible flowers. Of course never offer flowers that are you have any question about and remember that often, only *parts* of a plant are safe, so only offer those parts you know for sure are OK and of course never spray plants that you'll be eating. Also never offer flowers from a florist. some examples to try are: Anise Hyssop (agastache foeniculum)- the leaves and small petals of this flowering herb taste like a mixture of anise and root beer. Dill (Anethum graveolens)- young leaves, florets and seeds English Daisies (Bellis Perennis)- Petals have a slightly bitter flavor. Apple Blossoms(Malus spp.)- Petals have a slight floral taste.great for Waldorf Salads. Arugula(Eruca vesicaria)- Grown for its leaves, but when leaves become too strong tasting, flowers can be used. Bee Balm( Mondara, Oswego tea)- This one I love. It smells like mint and has red (having the most taste) or purple flowers...but it is an invasive plant, so containers might be best. Leaves and petals are minty and can be used for tea. Tuberous Begonias (Begonia X tuberhybridia)- Petals have a light lemony taste but taste first to make sure they are not astrigent. Broccoli- Yellow or white flowers that have a mild broccoli flavor Sage (salvia officinalis, S. elegans)- Sage flowers taste like sage but sweeter. Rose- Rose petals have a strong floral taste. My birds love to rip roses apart. Nasturtiums- flowers, leaves and seed pods are edible. They have a tangy mustard like flavor. Marigolds (tagetes)- Not all marigolds are tasty but there are some better varieties than others. The Lemon Gem and Tangerine Gem varities have a lot of taste. French Vanilla and Aurora Light Yellow are milder. Use the flowers petals. Daylillies (hemerocallis spp.)- Flower petals can be eaten. Taste ranges from a sweet floral to slightly metallic. the lighter colored flowers tend to be less astrigent than the darker colored ones. Pinks (Dianthus spp.)- Petals have a spicy, floral, clovelike taste. Sometimes the white base of the petal is bitter so you might want to remove it. Squash blossoms-all squash and pumpkin- yellow blossoms. A slight sweet nectar taste. Harvest in the early morning before blossoms close. Remove stems and stamens from blossoms. Strawberries- fruit and flower blossoms.eat petals. Pansies, Violas and Johnny Jump-Ups-Petals have a slight lettucelike taste Violets- Petals have a strong sweet floral taste Calendula (canlendula officianalis) petals have a tangy, bitter taste. Citrus blossoms (lemon and orange)-fruit and flower petals, strength of taste will vary. Cilantro-leaves and flowers,have an earthy flavor. Lilac-individual florets. Floral taste, some much better than others. Mustard (India Mustard), Japenese Red or Spinach mustard-Flowers have a slight mustard taste. Have FUN!! Shauna submitted by Randy Wood For help on edible flowers and gardening for your birds join Diana Dougherty FEATHER PICKING First thing to do is a vet check to rule out organic problems. I have found that most parrotlet picking problems have to do with too much hormone stimulation and/or not enough things to rip up. Do not give a Birdy Buddy; that will only encourage hormonal disturbances. One of the biggest mistakes new bird owners make is too much light. If you uncover your bird at 7 or 8 a.m. and do not put her to bed until 9 or 10 (sometimes later), that will trigger hormonal changes that stimulate breeding. Since she is not breeding, her frustration can lead to picking. Lower the amount of daylight she is getting to less than 12; 10 is better.Also, give her things she can destroy such as hanging a paper towel through the top of the cage bars. This will allow her to chew, tear and destroy without doing it to her feathers. Also, cut the inside cardboard tubes from toilet paper or paper towel rolls into 1" pieces and let her tear those up. As she peels and strips them, it will simulate preening. Also, I have found toys made of soft, frayed rope (pieces not too long) will also act as "feathers" and they can preen and preen until the toys are completely destroyed. Don't waste your money or torture your bird with sprays to stop feather plucking. They don't work and I think they are cruel to spray on such a tiny bird (how do you avoid getting it in their eyes and nose?).I have also heard of good results with some of the Avian Medicine Chest products. Happy parrotleting, Sandee Hot Peppers - "Why can birds tolerate what turns us to tears" UniSci - Daily University Science News Why Birds Disperse The Seeds Of Hot Chili Peppers Your tongue burns, tears trickle from your eyes and beads of sweat form on your face. Most people are well aware of the effects of "enjoying==hot chili peppers and tend to approach them with caution or stay away altogether. Birds, on the other hand, will happily consume the hottest of peppers with no ill effects whatsoever. A paper from Sven-Eric Jordt and David Julius published in this week's issue of Cell explains the cellular mechanism behind this long observed difference between mammals and birds. Hot chili peppers contain varying amounts of capsaicin, a chemical compound similar to the active compound in vanilla. In mammals, it is the capsaicin from hot peppers that interacts with a specific receptor protein called VR1 (vannilloid receptor 1) on sensory nerve endings and evokes sensations of burning and pain. VR1 also activates pain pathways when stimulated by heat. The researchers identified a receptor from chicken sensory neurons that is structurally and functionally similar to mammalian VR1. Although chicken VR1 was activated by heat, it differs from mammalian VR1 in that it is insensitive to stimulation by capsaicin. The scientists were able to pinpoint an exact region of the VR1 receptor in mammals that binds capsaicin and found that this small region is not present in the avian form of the receptor. This subtle difference in the structure of the VR1 receptors between the species makes mammals extremely sensitive to the spiciness of hot peppers while birds are relatively unaffected. This species-specific difference is good for the pepper plant as well as the bird. Mammalian predators, whose digestive systems would damage the seeds of the plant, are repelled, while birds can consume the peppers with ease. Wild birds are almost entirely responsible for dispersing the seeds of hot peppers, which pass through their gut without being digested. The pepper plant has therefore developed a unique chemical mechanism to improve its reproductive success. We now know that the basis of this interesting evolutionary mechanism hinges on a very tiny region of a specific protein receptor in sensory nerves. [Contact: David Julius] submitted by Randy Wood - Washington. DC Little known Facts to Share (tongue in cheek and just for fun) (#14 is about a bird) :-) Did you know... It is impossible to lick your elbow. A crocodile can't stick it's tongue out. A shrimp's heart is in their head. It is physically impossible for pigs to look up into the sky. A pregnant goldfish is called a twit Between 1937 and 1945 Heinz produced a version of Alphabetic Spaghetti especially for the German market that consisted solely of little pasta swastikas. More than 50% of the people in the world have never made or received a telephone call. The "sixth sick sheik's sixth sheep's sick" is said to be the toughest tongue twister in the English language. If you sneeze too hard, you can fracture a rib. If you try to suppress a sneeze, you can rupture a blood vessel in your head or neck and die. IF you keep your eyes open by force, they can pop out. Rats multiply so quickly that in 18 months, two rats could have over a million descendants. Wearing headphones for just an hour will increase the bacteria in your ear by 700 times. The cigarette lighter was invented before the match. Thirty-five percent of the people who use personal ads for dating are already married. A duck quack doesn't echo, and no one knows why. In the course of an average lifetime you will, while sleeping, eat 70 assorted insects and 10 spiders. Most lipstick contains fish scales. Cat's urine glows under a black-light. Like fingerprints, everyone's tongue print is different Mutation Parrotlets & Pellets - Something to Think About by - Sandee Molenda, The Parrotlet Ranch When you have been breeding birds as long as I have, you have seen a lot of changes in the world of aviculture. I remember where there were no avian veterinarians, the only birds available were caught out in the jungle and there was no such thing as a bird "toy". Thank goodness that things have changed dramatically in the last 20 years! One thing that has not changed is human nature. Once we learn something, it can be difficult to keep an open mind about new developments. Nowhere in aviculture is this so remarkably demonstrated than in the field of avian nutrition. In reminisce of yesterday, it also brings to mind when pellets were first invented and marketed as a complete food for your bird. At the time, the only "parrot food" was a mix of sunflower seed, corn, peanuts and dried chili peppers. Feeding fruit and vegetables to your birds was thought to cause diarrhea! Of course, we know the "first" parrot food was extremely high in fat and had almost no nutritional value other than the dried chili peppers. Now, of course, we know much better than that and certainly have a huge variety in what we should feed our birds. However, many people believe that unless their birds are eating pellets, they are not receiving a healthy diet. My belief is that there are many ways to supply a healthy and varied diet to our birds and pellets may or may not be a part of that program. Today, in addition to a huge variety of seeds and pellets, we have a limitless supply of fresh fruits, vegetables, sprouts and greens as well as whole grain breads, grains, rice and pasta. Many companies such as LeAvian(tm) and Soak N' Cook(tm) offer combinations of vegetables, fruits, grains, herbs, seeds and nuts which can be cooked and frozen then thawed as need be. These foods, combined with or without seeds and/or pellets, make up a healthful and complete diet for any parrotlet. However, if you have color mutation parrotlets, you would do well to feed these natural foods and avoid pellets altogether. Many parrotlets owners have reported high uric acid levels often resulting in kidney failure in their color mutations that have been on a primarily pelleted diet. This is not to say there is ANYTHING wrong with pellets as it seems to be in the way the birds' process the protein. There have been several private veterinarians as well as veterinarians at research universities that have also documented this problem in color mutations. In my own aviary, I am no longer feeding pellets to my mutations after losing a male fallow Pacific at six months to kidney failure. In fact, I do not give pellets to my split mutation parrotlets either. As with all my birds, about 70% of their diet is fresh foods with the remainder being seed. I am constantly doing research on nutrition with my birds and I may again change my program, but for now, this protocol works well - I have beautiful healthy birds who produce gorgeous bouncing babies. I also have a lot of old birds that I have had for 20 years and that to me, let's me know that what I am doing is right for me - and them. Happy parrotleting, Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S. Temperature: Generally speaking, adult (or young birds over 3 months) acclimated parrotlets do fine in temperatures between 55-90 degrees. If the temp drops below 60, they will stop breeding. And it is true, they do much better in the cold rather than the hot (doesn't make sense to me since they come from the tropics). However, I do know people who keep their parrotlets outside where the temperature can fall to 30 or less (of course, these birds are used to it and are sheltered from the wind and rain). I have friends in AZ where the summer temp can easily be over 110. They use misters to keep the birds cool. For parrotlets in a household situation, basically whatever is comfortable for you, will be comfortable for them. Of course, babies and new birds need to be acclimated and not exposed to sudden temperature changes. Happy parrotleting, Sandee I took my birds to work in all kinds of conditions and NEVER lost a baby. Not once. I only lived 15 minutes from my work and Iive in California but I got a converter for my car lighter which allowed me to plug my brooder into it and keep babies warm. I have also traveled with more parrotlets, including babies, than probably anyone. When I fly, I use hot packs for sports injuries which can be heated in a microwave or in hot water. They kept my babies warm all the way across the country in an over-airconditioned airplane cabin with no problems at all. During the summer, you will have the problem of keeping them cool. I just brought mine into the stores, etc. with me. You would be surprised how many people would ask me "Do you bring them everywhere?" I always wanted to reply, "No just the grocery store. They love to shop." :) Good luck and Happy parrotleting, Sandee Viruses: Viruses are species specific (unless they jump species but that is another subject) but no, you cannot give your bird a cold. BUT you can give them a bacterial infection such as strep. If you are ill do not kiss your bird and wash your hands frequently. Happy parrotleting,,Sandee Robert & Sandee Molenda - Certified Avian Specialists Why do birds sleep on one leg? A bird's leg receives three times as much blood per heartbeat as its pectoral muscles (the largest muscles in a bird's body). What this means is there is great potential for loss of body heat through a birds legs and feet. By standing on one leg, it is able to keep the other leg up close to its body and feathers to reduce heat loss. It is very similar to the way we pull our arms in close to our chest when we get cold, it reduces the amount of skin exposed to the cool air and keeps us warmer! Sue Turner |
Although most of this information has been gathered through the Parrotlet/Senegal/Grey lists the same advice would, in most cases, apply to all parrots. This is information has been gathered together to share with you..As always please read, learn what you can and always contact your veterinarian for specifics regarding your bird. |
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